Spurs - In Depth
Spurs control a lot of your ride. They keep you locked in off the start and they create drag throughout the ride. Drag is key. Watch any good bronc ride where the rider is completely in control, toes turned out, the drag is there. Don't believe me...go get on a rank one without spurs. See how that works out for ya. Wait...we didn't tell you to do that...must have been another blog. In all reality, you could get by some horses without spurs (the markout would be interesting) but they are an asset on the rank ones.
Don't over do it. Ya you want drag but if your spur shanks are too long, you will have a hard time getting them over the shoulders after a spur out. It's easier to get caught up in things too. Like the cinch. Most people run a shank length of anywhere between 1" and 1 3/4" typically. Yes, grandma there is a difference. Longer shanks have more drag & visa versa. Shorter shanks enable faster feet. Generally the shorter your legs are the shorter you want your spur shanks. But like anything ladies, it's all preference.
I would suggest, if you are having a hard time holding your mark out, lengthen your spur shank. If you want faster feet, shorten. On average, I would say most use 1 1/2" shank. Try to stick with a downward curved shank in saddle bronc. Your feet will pull better when it's time to take them out of the neck.
Rowels. Lots of different shapes and sizes here folks. Stay with bronc specific rowels, and NEVER lock them. Ya that would be illegal...and you do need some roll in your spur stroke. I've seen some rowels that the centre is a square or triangle. They are supposed to give more drag without technically locking up. The holes had to be fairly big to work. Never used them. You be the judge. I doubt they are really necessary. Not sure of the legality. I guess they used to use them more in the late 70's early 80's. I have heard about judges getting wise and listening for the zingy noise they make, so if you miss a spur stroke, they can hear it. One way to get the same drag and get away without the clicking is to make the holes oval. With that said, almost nobody uses them anymore. Just turn yer toes out. Most people use the smaller style rowels. They indent the hide more and roll slower = more drag.
The straps should be the doubled-up kind if you can help it. They start on one side cross over, go through a roller on the other side and come back across to the buckle. If something breaks (and stuff can break) they are less likely to come off during a ride. Leather or nylon works. Example below.
Under heel straps. There is some debate about this one. Lots of people use wire. Sometimes twisted around itself, sometimes wrapped with hockey tape. I prefer leather (shown below). According to the Etbauer brothers, they allow the spur to shift side-to-side on your heel better. Your feet will bounce less when the spurs contact the horse as the leather twists and flexes more. But depending on how you do it, it can be more bulky in the stirrup, and it wears quicker.
Spurs with the posts for attaching the under heel straps are fine, but a better idea is cutting the inside post off and drilling a hole to tie it to. They just catch on stuff less. That idea, I think originated with the Etbaures. (First spurs shown below). Another good idea they had was, a small rod welded from the outside of the heel cup on the spur, to right before the rowel, in-line with the shank. It takes that dead space 'v' away that is between the heel and the spur. This makes it easier for the shank to slide over your hack rein when you inevitably spur over it. (Examples below).
Tension. You want your spurs slightly loose. Your boots come off better in the event of a hang up and your feet don't bounce off the animals' hide because the spurs deflect somewhat.
That's it bud. Spurs 101.
